My Saturday morning is predictable: toast, Marmite, jasmine tea for MaltCim, check the beginning of Saturday Kitchen on BBC1 to see who’s on. These days, this includes who’s hosting (instead of James Martin), and who’s doing the wine choices.
Who am I kidding about the wine? As my regular reader will know, I get cross about the wine bit, because well, beer. Except, today, After introducing the guest chefs, 1 min and 14 seconds in…
Matt Tebbutt (guest host): And Sam, there’s a bit of a theme going on. Bit of a red theme. You going red wine?
Sam Caporn (wine expert): Er, red ale.
Matt: Really? Controversial…
Me: What?! (Pauses live TV, checks outside for colour of grass in this parallel universe. rewinds.) She just said “ale”!
Beer and food blogger almost chokes in front of Saturday Kitchen
Yes, I wrote “parallel universe” because beer never happens on Saturday Kitchen. I’ve talked to famous beer writers about this. People who have books out and who (sometimes) appear on TV. They told me Saturday Kitchen just flat refused them. “No interest, darling.”
This is the first time, to my knowledge that a specific beer has been recommended as a match to a dish on Saturday Kitchen. I tire of the typical wine expert’s apology: “This fantastic [asparagus/egg/chili/chocolate/etc.] dish by [insert guest chef’s name] can be a bit tricky to find a wine match for…” and then they choose a wine anyway, even after hovering the camera temptingly over the beer shelves at Waitrose.
At last, for cook Zoe Adjonyoh’s update of a traditional Ghanaian red-red stew, it was acknowledged that beer was the best choice. And not just any generic beer.
(10 min in)
Matt: Sam, is this a difficult one to match?
Sam: Well, because of the spice as you just said, you’re really looking for refreshment. White wine would work, but red… the tannins would clash with the chili. So for ultimate refreshment, for me, I went for American [style] red ale… It’s BrewDog 5AM Saint.
Matt: So, no red, red wine. [Laughter]
Sam: … Look at the colour, it’s so deep and rich…
And in fairness…
Matt: It’s lovely, I love this beer.
Why BrewDog 5AM Saint with red-red stew
So what makes beer, and specifically 5AM Saint American-style red ale a good match/pairing for red-red? Although we often hear about “matching” a wine to a dish, there’s more to it than that. And as Sam Caporn alludes to, some wines just don’t match and might even clash with the flavours in the food. There are other ways food and drink can go together. It’s about pairing.
The watchwords should be: Complement, Contrast, Cut, as explained by John Keeling, director of brewing at Fuller’s, at a recent beer and food evening at my “local”.
I think the 5AM Saint provides an element of Cut and some Complement. BrewDog describe it as “Bitter Sweet Chaos. Malty. Fruity. Bite”. Ignoring “chaos”, but hey, awesome, guys, this is the essence of why this works with a chili-hot stew.
The citrus fruitiness of the hops cut “bite” through any heaviness in the stew, like a similarly fruity, citrussy white wine would, but which often are overpowered by other flavours in the food. The malt, the “red” heart of this of the red ale, comes from slightly toasted malts that give a caramel/toffee apple accent. This gives a touch of sweetness, which goes very well with chili heat. Is that cut or complement, or both? It also makes for a more powerful flavour which stands up to the spicy stew.
Here is the lowdown from BrewDog’s own notes on their website:
What was it like for you?
TBH, I haven’t tried this combo myself, I wrote this because I love it that someone FINALLY chose a beer on Saturday Kitchen, but I recognise that this should work. Maybe you’ve tried it. I will give it a go. Let’s compare notes afterwards. Well done to Saturday Kitchen for going with a beer. Let’s have some more!
Watch this episode of Saturday Kitchen until 16 July: http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b08w5k76/saturday-kitchen-17062017
Zoe Adjonyoh’s Red-red stew with spiced plantain: http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/red-red_stew_with_spiced_28798
…And book: Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen from her website: https://www.zoesghanakitchen.co.uk/
Sam Caporn’s website: https://www.themistressofwine.com/about/
Get BrewDog 5AM Saint from Tesco or indeed, BrewDog’s own online store.
I have used a screen shot from the BBC iPlayer page for this programme on the BBC website.